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#919 - 11/03/04 09:13 AM Re: The art & the science of feeds & feeding
Rob2 Offline
Classroom Professor

Registered: 03/28/03
Posts: 3068
Loc: Pennsylvania
I am not going to breed for the extreme tail length, my preference is length and abundamce of saddle area feathering. I am not dedicated enuff for the use of tombaku, partaially a time consideraTION ALSO. I dont have a feeding regimen down pat yet, I hope to do some thinking on that this winter. I am kind of entering a transitional period here, more veggies and more berries which may leave less time for quality breeding projects. I may just keep some ornamenatal pheasants and poultry in avuaries around in the perennial garden areas. Really hate to give up the breeding of the hamburgs, the others bredings may suffer some too but I do all this with no help and I am gettin older and slower!!

#920 - 11/03/04 10:20 AM Re: The art & the science of feeds & feeding
WeatherWood Gardens Offline
Coop Keeper

Registered: 07/23/04
Posts: 403
Loc: Wisconsin
Like Marks Crele Phoenix? They are wonderful and I have the picture of the brother of his mix on the desk top. Keeps me honest in my work. I want it all saddle and tail.My Fayoumi has hackle into the saddle and tail like a mane.The Phoenix hens will never breed back into my old line of Phoenix I am getting but add into some of my other lines the boys will be worked for the tail.PattiAnn

#921 - 11/05/04 01:55 AM Re: The art & the science of feeds & feeding
KazJaps Offline
Classroom Professor

Registered: 08/30/02
Posts: 2792
Loc: Australia
Hi Rob,
Since this old thread I started-
Feed Mixes for Show stock & breeders
I ended up deciding to make my own grain/mash mix, for both breeders & young stock. I couldn't get hold of any commercially mixed poultry breeder feed. So I made up my own mix, based on a Agriculture Department recipe (for layers - small flocks) & not adding a layer premix (vitamins/minerals, etc), but a generalised amino acid, vitamin/mineral supplement for breeding livestock (ie, not designed for layers, but with instructions for use on poultry, etc). I did this as I didn't want the extra calcium, etc found in layer feed, as my bantams are lucky to lay 100 eggs per year. Plus I had problems with commercial chick starter feeds, as most had coccidiostats, some with medications not recommended for breeders (all my chicks are raised by broodies, alot of hens being my breeding hens). So I just adjust the mix for chicks/broodies, growers & breeders. I also adjust the grain percentages, depending on what I know the birds like eg, my Japs prefer more sunflower, the d'Uccles more budgie mix & safflower at the moment, some months ago they craved whole oats, barley & wheat with husks, now not so keen on these (plenty of other fibre now in the diet). I buy the wheat/milo/cracked corn already mixed. These are the main grain/seed ingredients. I know the supplier mixes accordingly to suit his exhibition games (eg, adjusts the mix in winter, more corn), & usually he is spot on, with my lot eating the mix equally (little waste of any grain).

My feed usually contains the following:

-Cracked Corn

-Budgie mix (millets, etc)

-Flaked Barley (steamed & coated in molasses)

-Black Sunflower

-Meat and bone meal
-Lucerne meal (Alfalfa)

-Wheat Pollard
-Rice Pollard

-Amino Acids/Vitamins/Minerals (for breeders)

-Balanced oil blend for livestock (mostly fish oil, garlic added)- balanced Omega 3 -6 -9, & balanced Omega 3s.
-&/or Linseed oil
-Molasses vitamin/mineral blend (containing molasses, seaweed, yeast, apple cider vinegar, etc) (small quantity only, used with the oils as a sticking agent for the protein meal/vitamins/minerals/pollard mix )

-Shell Grit

*Apple Cider Vinegar (with garlic added)used in drinking water (added benefit keeps the water lines & drinkers clean of algae)


I've checked the feed with the following poultry feed formulation program:

and compared with:
Nutrient Requirements of Chickens and Turkeys

What ever I change to the balanced base mix (Ag. Dept mix), I still keep in proportion the grains to protein meals percentages, etc. As I've never come across a feed recipe, nor nutritional requirements specifically tested & trialled for exhibition bantams (that lay under 100 eggs per year), it's all been trial & error to develop a mix the birds will like & do well on. My mix is approximately 16% protein. I haven't been able to get hold of locally any legume grains suited for poultry (nor alot of legume meals, such as Soybean or oilseed/copra meals- only marketed for cattle/horses, etc), but if I do, I'll trial them in the mix. Fish meal is twice the price of meat meal. If I have the cash to spare I'll buy it (hasn't happened yet, lol).

#922 - 11/08/04 05:18 AM Re: The art & the science of feeds & feeding
Jocelyn Offline
Lord of the Fowl

Registered: 08/26/02
Posts: 1467
Loc: Canada
It's going to depend on where you live, what extras you can feed. I feed hog grower pellets at 16 percent in bug weather, after the molt. When confined and unable to range, I feed emu breeder at 22 percent. During the molt, i feed frozen smelts or mussels, both cooked, as they are easier to handle that way. Both of these are available free, if you catch your own. In the case of smelts, people net them, throwing the small ones away, or ripping them out of the net carelessly so that they die. I go after them and gather up before the gulls get them all. You need to wait till the ice is fairly solid though, as a five gallon bucket of fish, plus a plump lady is heavier than you think..grin. If it's minus 50 something with the wind chill, I feed suet too...3 bucks for 8 pounds at the butcher's. Since my chickens live to their late teens and some to their early twenties, it seems to work.

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