For the life of me, I can't find a happy medium on regulating the humidity in my new HovaBator...forced air with the electronic thermostat. I am impressed with its consistent 99.5^-100^ temperature. However,
Blueboy, I gave up on my HovaBator, and gave it away. The lady who has it has had some successful hatches after getting a hygrometer, which has helped with humidity readings
Oxygen needs increase towards the end of incubation. Keeping the vent holes closed doesn't sound very good for an incubator full of eggs. Most incubators that I've worked with recommend opening the vent holes for hatch. The amount to open them is dependent on the percent capacity. If the incubator is full the recomendation is usually to open them all up. I've never had a Hovabator, so I can't say, but try half a set and see if you get a better hatch. If you do you will probably have to open some of your vent holes for a full hatch.
the vast majority of eggs do not hatch, about 20% hatch rate. When the eggs go beyond the hatch date, I break open the egg and find fully developed chicks, some with yolks absorbed and some with yolks still attached. The incubator instructions state that the one water trough should be filled with water, then both troughs on day 18. It also says to leave the vent plugs in the vent holes unless there is condensation on the picture window in the top of the incubator. I realize that every incubator is different but I'm in desperate need of advice from someone who has one of these models and has fine-tuned this particular incubator. Thanks
By Cjeanr on Tuesday, March 19, 2002 - 01:25 am:
Sometimes with all the troughs filled near the end of the hatch, there is too much humidity, the chick cannot "breath", as the air space is best described as "foggy", not enough oxygen to keep the chick pipping, and it sort of drowns. But that is only one of the reasons a failure occurs near or at the end of the hatch. An egg's placing in the incubator may mean success or failure on this problem. I think vent plugs open is better.
There are some people who "dry hatch", use no water until the very last couple of days????? They swear by it. Haven't tried it, as my TX6 automatically feeds water to keep humidity where you want it. Rarely fills more than 3 or 4 troughs, out of about a dozen. Keep trying. (Or obtain some nice setter-bantam hens!) CJR
By Rokimoto on Tuesday, March 19, 2002 - 10:13 am:
Nutruition and health of your flock can affect late deads. If your birds have internal parasites or lice and mites they can't put enough essential things in the eggs to develop a chick. Adding vitamins to the water might help. The hen puts a lot of things like vitamins in the egg for the chick. If she has a vitamin dificiency she can't put enough in the egg. 20% protein instead of the usual 16% layer ration might help. Most of the solids in the egg is protein. The chick uses the protein in the egg white to grow and develop.