What else, if anything, should chickens eat to stay healthy and happy besides scratch. My hens are layers only.

I don't think your hens would be too happy getting only scratch to eat. They probably would stop laying.

Feeding most laying hens is pretty basic. The reqirements of most layers are usually the same, although slight variations may occurr. The problem is that many feeds do not meet the exact requirements of the chicken. Here's a brief glance at what most feeds should have in their ingedients.

Scroll to the bottom of this page to see a basic glossary of the terms used in the following text.



Protein: an essential part of your laying hens' feed requirments as it supplies amino acids. Too much or too little protein is bad for your hens, so look at the percentage of protein incorporated in the food.
Minerals: also important, but make sure the calcium, phosphorus and salt (also known as sodium chloride) are in the proper ratio. In one of our latest e-zines, we gave our subscribers some easy tips on free calcium supplements that have the exact amount of calcium needed to ensure strong, healthy egg shells.
Vitamins, Carbohydrates and fats: energy, in poulty terminology, is portrayed as M.E., or metabolized energy. If you have subscribed to our e-zine you would have received a chart the shows how energy from feed is matabolized and converted into different byproducts. Too little carbohydrates is not good, especially on cold, winter nights when the hens need the added warmth provided by the digestion of carbs. Vitamins, such as B complexes, vitamin C, and vitamin D should be in the feed according to the feed's purpose. The reason for this is that hens at different stages of laying need different amounts of certain nutrients. Fats (aslo known as lipids) should be in low amounts, just like in human foods, since a high concentration of fats reduces hens' health.
The above list are some of the things that most feeds should have. You should also look at how the different requirments are met and see if you will need to supplement the feed with kitchen scraps, scratch, or more. The following list is of a few other charachteristics that feed should meet.

1.It should have enough nutrients for the needed result. For example, high-protein feeds for meat birds should not be fed to layers and will result in a decline in egg production.

2. The feed must appeal to the chicken's taste preference. Alright, it may sound silly, but it is important. Afterall, if your chickens don't like the taste they won't eat and might even starve to death. You don't have to go out and find chicken feed that says "Savory beef stew" or "Lamb chops in gravy" (you're feeding a chicken, not a cat). All you need to do is make sure the feed is fresh, not musty or moldy, and not wet (although some feeds are intended to be mixed with water to make an oatmeal-like texture).

3. The levels of the ingredients must be used in proper form. Some ingredients may be beneficial in small amounts, but too much may be harmful. For example: salt is important in feed, but too much salt causes the chicken to drink more. If there isn't enough water available for the increased water needs, the bird will become dehydrated. If the chicken becomes dehydrated, she wont lay eggs and that will make you lose a profit.

4. A variety of food ingredients. This makes up for any nutritional deficences in a single ingredient ( just like corn, wheat, and oat in your cereal make it healthier than just plain, old corn).

Water is also a very important factor of your layers' feed requirments. Too little water results in dehydration, excessive stress, and a decline in egg production. Some birds may even die, understandably since the bird's body (like human's) is mostly water. If you are starting your flock from chicks, a gallon of clean water/day should be enough for one hundred birds. Mature birds need 6.5-10 gallons per hundred animals per day (this site is created for small flock chicken raisers, so we don't think you'll be raising hundreds of chickens all at once).






Glossary:
1. Protein- is a complex organic molecule made up of carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and certain other elements which provide raw materials for building protoplasm. Sometimes called the building blocks of an organism.

2. Amino acids- are the building blocks if protein. Amino acids are special nitrogen compounds from whcih proteins are made.

3. Fats- also called Lipids.

4. Lipids- are organic compounds which are made up of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen but which havel ess oxygen than carbohydrates. Lipid is a general term which includes fats and other fatlike substances.




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------




Special note:

Pullets (female chickens under one year) should not be fed too much at a time, especially if the feed is high in protein. The reason for this is that the extra rations may induce them to lay eggs before their bodies are physically capable of it. Serious damage and even death may occurr if a full-sized egg tries to pass through the narrow, immature vent, causing prolapse*. On a smaller scale, pullets who begin laying too early might forever lay small, puny eggs. Unless you and your customers don't mind having to cook twenty little eggs to make the equivelant of one hard-boiled egg, we think you should discourage prolapse.
To help prevent this, try to lower the amount of protein in the hens' feed. One way of accomplishing this is by stirring in a handful of oats or grain to make a 50/50 oat or grain ration. The hens can eat their fill, but the ratio of protein/x is low. Although this method might cause you an extra dollar or so, in the long run you will have lost nothing compared to the drop in profit when your customers realize that their paying hard-earned money for bantam-sized eggs.
If you do follow these instructions, remeber to gradually reduce the amount of extra feedstuff (such as oats or other grains) once the hens start laying, until they're eating pure rations again. The reason for gradually removing the extra feedstuff is that the sudden introduction of feed with a high amount of protein can cause problems with the hen's digestive system.
While you're doing this, carefully switch the birds from grower to layer's food (the difference between the two can be researched at your local library). Be careful when you do this! A sudden switch between two seperate feeds can shock the chicken's digestive system, causing a lapse in laying and lower health.
Another important thing you should do is discontinue medicating the hen's before they start laying! You do NOT want to eat chicken medication since it can harm your own digestive system (and cause other long-term problems).
Most hens will start laying in about 20-23 weeks of age, heavier breeds laying a bit later. By the time the chicken starts laying, they should be eating about 14-16 lbs. of food (unless you're supplementing it with scratch, grass, or kitchen scraps).

*Prolapse: when the inside of the vent is pushed out to the outside. The hen may die. Apply hemorrhoidal cream and isolate chicken until healing is complete.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Feeding directions:
First of all, you should read the feed label. Some feeds require (or recommend) a specific way of feeding. You should follow the label especially when administering feed with medication in it. An overdose of medication can be harmful to your chickens, if not fatal.
There are many ways of feeding chickens. One is the "all-you-can-eat " buffett-style. A hopper of food is placed before the chickens, who suppossedly eat only as much as they need. The farmer refills the hoppers whenever they run out. Some problems with this is that the hens, like people, usually do not eat only what they need. Most hens will become too fat, which in egglayers is NOT a good thing (although meatbird raisers may want "plump" chickens). Also, costs of feed are usually higher since the birds eat more and there is a higher chance of food spilling on the floor and getting soiled. Another problem that you might incounter is that rodents and other pests will be attracted to spilled food. If rats live near your chicken coops, you will have a higher risk of diseases.
The alternative is the "restrained" method. Only the required amount to sustain the chicken(s) is given, reducing feed costs and wasted food. Some problems that you might have is that in a large flock some of the birds that are lower in the pecking order may not get their fair share. This will result in starvation, a weaker immune system, and a drop in egg production. The farmer also has to take the time and effort to measure out the right amount of food (which isn't hard nor time-consuming). You will probably find that the restrained method is the best option for you. I suggest you experiment with both feeding methods and choose the one that is easiest and best for you.

Hi Josh, looks like you've covered all the bases, but your the only one I've ever read who mentions a "restrained" feeding method. I have never heard of that method. While being overweight may be a problem with hens, I prefer to give my pullets and hens all they can eat. I do have a "heavy" Orpington, but then, she's always been that way. I've read posts from Dr. Bruce where he recommends keeping hoppers full. The crop can only hold so much, and if they run out of food and have an empty crop, stressed birds would result. Stressed birds lay less.

I've had the opportunity to follow 2 flocks, mine and an in-laws. I've written about this in other posts. He used the "restrained" method where I serve "buffet" style. Even he couldn't get over the difference in feathering and laying ability. His birds have been half naked for the past 2 summers, where mine weren't.

We got our birds at the same time, arrived in one box at his house. He kept them till they were 3 months old and then I got my 6 and he kept the other 19. Out of 18 hens now, he is getting the same amount of eggs a day as I'm getting out of my 7. I added 1 pullet I hatched in the spring. He's also using artificial light in his coop, I'm not.

The only thing I can attribute his lower production and poorer feather "coats" to is our difference in the way we manage our flocks. I will continue to give my birds all they can eat, as it works best for me. Not to put down the way anyone takes care of their birds, we all do things differently. I commend you on your well written and very informative previous post.

Hi HannahH,

Your experience with the different feeding systems would make an interesting science experiment. I know one person who uses the "all you can eat" style and his hens lay maybe one egg per week. I guess there are more factors than just how you feed your flock. I know temperature and light also make a difference.

Hi Josh, the above post is the real deal. My in-law bought 25 chicks from Ideal (I think, not sure.) He got 4 each of Buff Orps, Lt. Brahma, Blk. Australorp, RIR, Americana, Red Star Sex-link, and one roo. I took one of each (6 birds) when they were 3 months old.

My girls are just now coming out of their first molt, got 3 eggs from them today. He's had a problem with feather loss and low productivity all along. The only difference in management is the feed issue and he's using extra light now that the days are getting shorter. He's getting the same amout of eggs as I am from 18 birds. I'm not using extra light.

This difference in our flocks of the exact same birds tells me all I need to know about how to feed chickens!

If your feed is of good quality and freshness, and has the right protein level for starting (20-22%), growing (18-20%), and laying (16%), layer pullets or dual purpose birds should have all they will eat. If the ration is balanced the way it should be, the birds will not become too fat with feed in front of them at all times. You will not be as good at having the right amount of feed in front of each bird at just the time they should have it as they are themselves.
Cornish X, on the other hand, benefit from having their feed withheld during the night. They need enforced exercise through movement between feeders, waterers, brooder, etc.
With both of these kinds of birds, using the right kind of feeders and suspending them at the right height will eliminate most or all of your feed loss/waste problems. With the right diet in front of them, chickens are very good at eating just what they need. If you allow them free choice of grain, feed, scraps, and everything else, they may not balance their ration to OUR liking, because their goal is not to produce the most eggs in a nest for us to take. Their goal is to survive in comfort and reproduce adequately. Since they have been bred to produce for us, they need to be fed and cared for in a way that suits our goals for them.

me and my step-dad went out and bought some "layer feed". That is what it said on the bag. The guy at TSC. said that the feed had all the basic necessities. I just started throwing it out yesterday so I'll have to wait and see if it helps any. So far, I've only gotten 3 eggs out of 6 chickens in 2 weeks. I'm putting out the same amount of scratch as the layer feed. Does this sound right? Thanks for all the help
-David

I don't think its a good idea to give the hens the same amount of scratch as layer feed. This will seriously lower the protein content of the layer feed. Ask you're feed store what kind of layer feed it is. 20 percent? 16?

Ahem, not wanting to give out any bogus info here...I've read here on the coop to only give scratch as a treat in very low amounts...no more that about a teaspoon full per bird per day. I found when I quit giving my girls so much "candy" they did better. Now I mainly give them scratch when rounding them up to put them back in their pen and such. I'll go for a few days and give them none, then other days I'll give them a little. They really do love it though.

David: how old are your birds? Hannah is right. Offer your birds all the layer ration they will eat from troughs or hanging feeders. For now, don't give them any scratch feed. The tag on your feed will list its protein level. If it's not at least 16%, get better feed. If you have access to an elevator or feed mill in your area, they probably have finely ground layer mash available already, and it should be less costly than crumble feed from a store. I would expect your birds to do better on this feed than they do on what you have now, but scratch should only be fed as a treat AFTER they have filled up for the night and are getting ready to go to roost. If you have six birds, a coffee measure or two (total: a quarter cup) of grain or mixed scratch just before roosting is probably all they should have. Eggs are mostly protein, fat, and water, so they need the protein in their diets to be able to produce more than just a few eggs now and then.

David, The layer feed must be fed in a feeder where you can keep it before them all the time. If you scatter it, much will be wasted and they will not eat enough. You can make a feeder or get a commercially mfged one, often plastic and it must be large enough to hold several days feed, at least. You can scatter the scratch, but really VERY little!. It will take a little while for the feed to help you get more eggs. CJR

Thanks for the help. I've stopped with the scratch and fed just the layer feed and have gotten 2 eggs today. Mostly it's been one egg every 2 or 3 days.
-David

Why is it that my chickens are always the opposite of everyone else? Please don't do what I'm about to say...

I feed my chickens tons of table scraps (noodles, oatmeal, yams and marshmallows, pumpkin, fish, taro, beans, etc.), grass, garden vegetables, and a whole lot more besides just layer feed. Guess what? They lay like its the end of the world, drowning me in dozens upon dozens of eggs! What is the matter with them? They didn't molt for the first 2 or 3 years of their laying life (I got quite worried!). And even the extremely old ones are laying well!

I guess they're like me...different from the rest and very weird. Okay, maybe I'm not weird...just odd!

Josh, sounds like your doing the right things to me! All those wonderful goodies your birds are getting sound fine. Not sure about the marshmallows, but everything else sounds great!

And what is taro? (!)

Taro is a plant that ancient Hawaiians grew and was staple for their diet. Its very nutritious and can be used for a variety of purposes, besides just food. When ground up, it makes "poi". Poi has a pudding-like consistency and texture and is delicious (although many people don't agree with me on this!). Still grown extensively in Hawaii, taro (along with sweet potato, bread fruit, native fruits, etc.) was an essential part of the Hawaiian culture and life.

Do you live in Hawaii?

Great deduction! Unfortunately, I can't give out personal information...call me paranoid if you want but I get kind of freaked out about all those weirdos tracking people down from bits and pieces of info those people let out.

Not that you're a weirdo...

:0

my wife has 16 silkie hens and probably 8 roosters. they all run loose together during daylight, except for the 2 or 3 that arealways setting. (on empty nests ). the only feed they ever get is shelled corn, wheat, and if i have pigs, they get pig feed.(this is basically corn,soy). they are producing 7 to8 eggs per day.this is how they have been fed for years. when i bred pit games, they were fed entirely on scratch feed,with supplements of greens and meat scraps. they were very healthy birds.

Meat scraps? Did she feed them raw meat?

josh poultry, hog, and other livestock feeds used to contain animal fats and other digested meat products until all the animal diseases,(scrapie, hoof and mouth, etc.)became more of a problem. normally i fed raw liver or hamburg to my pit games for conditioning. inthe winter months yhe birds like a small animal carcass hung from the ceiling to a height they can just reach by hopping to. sun flower heads are also enjoyed this way.

As far as I understand chickens are omnivorous and will eat almost any(every)thing. If they are confined they need to be given a very well balanced diet but if they free-range their diet will be balanced by the variety of their intake: seeds, greens, fruit, bugs, worms...

My chickens HUNT mice and love to eat them. Sick.

If all a person has is roosters, what should THEY be fed?

My brother in law is going to take a few extra roosters but I'm not sure what to set up with for feed for just the guys.

Is he going to try to keep them as pets? Or ready them for butchering? If butchering, go with a high protein game bird type feed. If just kept as pets, give them a well balanced general purpose chicken feed or even layer ration if that is all that's available. They need a good balanced nutrition just like a hen. They just don't need the extra calcium but it won't hurt them to have it.

Susie

Susie,

All I have found around is here (these are for pets, not butchering) is starter and lay ration, no grower. Which would you recommend...I would guess that the starter is too high a protein at 18%, but maybe wouldn't be so bad with 50/50 mix of oats in there too?

Thanks,
Michelle

Michelle,

For keeping roos as pets, I'd go with whatever is cost effective and I'm sure starter is more expensive. You might check the cost of mixing it with oats like you are saying. That would work just fine. I'm suspecting layer ration is cheaper and that would be fine for them also. I can't get grower where I live either, even with about 8 feed stores within reasonable driving range, although I could order it in. But grower is higher protein and probably best reserved for meat bird production and I'm betting it's not as cheap as layer ration.

Really, any of these would be fine and combined with oats would be fine as would extra scratch to "water down" the protein a little bit. The roosters will thrive and do great so look at the $$ factor and go from there.

Susie