I am new to raising chickens. My hen just hatched her first chick today. Now what? They are in a coop outside. We have blocked off the opening so Mama can't get out. She is still sitting on the chick. I have placed food/water right next to her so she has no reason to leave. When will she want to leave the nest, will the chick follow? When and what do we feed the chick or will she take care of it's feeding? What else do we need to know?
Thanks in advance.
Rhonda

Help! I'm expecting my first order of chicks in 5 days. I thought I was ready! But, even with the hen house & pen in the works. And the brooder all set up for the new little babies, I'm feeling very under-informed. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on. But I was just told that my little silkies might get squished by my husbands new little jumbo cornish x rocks. My husband is a nice guy & all, but, when I told him that I might need a second area for the silkies I thought he might loose it. are there any suggestions how I can keep my babies safe & my husband happy at the same time. Thanks for any info.
mamacat

I bought four, one week old chicks. They are just beginning to feather. I'm keeping them in the garden shed in a nice cage with plenty of food, water & room. My question is, how do I keep them warm and control the amount of light they should have when the light is their source of heat. We thought of moving them into the cellar of our house for a week or two.

what is the temp. the incubator need to be on to hatch and egg?

How old do chicks have to be to where they don't need to have a heat source. What out side temp is ok.
<mazgay@teleport.com>

It is recommended that temperature be 95f for about the first week, dropping about 5 degrees each week until they are well feathered. AT 6 weeks, this would put them at 70f, 8 weeks, they will be comfortable at 60-65f. But always they should be out of drafts. CJR

I'm preparing to buy some day old chicks and have a question about the light/heat thing. I'm only getting four chicks, and wondered if I can get by with a regular 100 watt light bulb for heat. It does keep the box warm enough, but I'm concerned about having them under light 24 hours a day for six weeks. Will that lead to cannibalism, or is it more a space thing? A 250 Watt heat lamp seemed too intense for just four chickies. Thanks for any ideas!

I BOUGHT 6 CHICKS FOR MY DAUGHTER,JUST DAYS AGO,NO DRAFT PLENTY OF FOOD AND WATER AND SO FAR SO GOOD OH YEA KEEP THEM WARM ALLS FINE SO FAR,
LAST YEAR I BOUGHT A HOUSE UP STATE NEW YORK (EVER SEE GREEN ACRES ) IM LIVING IT!
ANY WAY THE LITTLE BIRDS ARE EVENTUALLY GONA TURN INTO CHICKENS IM FROM BROOKLYN WHAT THE HECK DOES A CHICKEN COOP LOOK LIKE AND HOW THE HECK DO I GET INFORMATION ON BUILDING ONE ALL HELP DEEPLY APPRECIATED REALLY ! CONTACT JCBIGBUCKS@WORLDNET.ATT.NET

I am planning on buying a couple of eggs/ or chicks...I don't know which to start out my first 'project with"..any suggestion?
And which birds would be the hardiest breed. I would also like ot know about how long they need to stay warm. I live near Boston, and the Winters are hardly warm, say around Zero!!!! I read that these birds carry lice...are they catchy to people dogs, cats???
Thanks!!!!
KWalker653@aol.com

I am buying five chicks for my niece for Easter, she wants to raise some chickens for a project. I need information on how to take care of them, but in the text that a ten year old will be able to follow. Could someone please help. Thanks, Dale

We're new to a half acre here in SoCal, and I just bought 6 chicks for my son and his mom and I to raise, and am doing well so far, but need to build a coop. I am sure most anything will work, but I'd rather build it right the 1st time. Rather than having you spend lots of time informing me, perhaps you can just point me to a website with coop-building info!! thanks

My twin sons got a rooster & a drake (about a week old) for Easter. We live in South Carolina & have fire ants everywhere. I am ready to build a coop and fence it but I'm concerned about the ants.....any suggestions? Also, any problem with the rooster & drake staying together? They are very close now.

Styx, We live in Texas and also have tremendous amounts of fire ants. It is best if you use "Andro" Fire Ant killer around the outside of the coup. Be very careful not to let the weekolds come in contact with the poison.

I was wondering when chicks are ready to go outside. I live in maryland and have 4 chicks that are two and half weeks old. I keep them warm and under a light. When are they ready to be put out in the yard?

Cindy, Mine don't go outside, (and then for just a few hours to start, in a protected place, on warm days, no wind) until about 8 weeks, and gradually they can stay out longer. After spending so much time on them as wee things, no need to risk cold and damp, and as chicks,they aren't able to take care of themselves at all. They'll huddle together in fear and trembling at the big world for a while! CJR

I am kind of new to the poultry raising buisiness. What I mean is that I bought my first 2 batches of chickens. I'm now trying to hatch some and they're due today. I heard that it's a good idea to innoculate from disease.I was wondering, how do you innoculate a baby chick? Where do you inject it so that you don't hurt it?

I have 2 hens and 1 rooster, all Dutch Bantams. This is my first time raising. I was told they were about 3 or 4 months old. They are all together and I am unsure of when I should expect eggs from the hens. Any advice is appreciated. Thank You.

Chris, My little Dutch pullets usually lay at 4 1/2 to 5 months old. But in fall and winter, it may be later, with the shorter hours of daylight. First eggs will be very tiny. They will start to "sing" several weeks before the first egg appears. Aren't they pretty birds? CJR

TO CJR. THANKS. If I do not care if I get fertile eggs yet as I am new at this, would you suggest to leave a rooster and hens in same cage all of the time or separte them. I am not sure, other than fertile eggs, if this makes a difference for the birds. Should a light be kept on them just to assist them in laying? Thanks for your time. CHRIS

Chris, As long as the cockerel isn't bothering the pullets too much (bare heads and constant mounting) they can just stay together. The eggs will be fertile almost from the first. I don't hatch the first eggs, waiting until they rest (don't let them hatch any, if they set). The eggs are larger their next laying, and I date every egg, so that when they do set again, I give them to 5 or 6 freshest eggs to hatch. The pullets would just as soon be alone, and the cockerel will do just fine until you are ready for fertile eggs. If you leave a light, be sure it isn't making the cage too warm over their heads. A light, up to 14 hours a day will bring them into laying earlier--they may wait quite a while otherwise. Have you found the Dutch Bantam page? Invitation to join the American Dutch Bantam Society? Find it on the Links, when you open the COOP. CJR

CJR: I HAVE BOTH MY HENS AND ROOSTER ON BLUE SEAL LAYER PELLETS 16%, CAN YOU LET ME KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY BETTER SUGGESTIONS FOR FEED? ALSO, IS IT A GOOD IDEA TO FEED THEM CRACK CORN? SOMEONE HAD MENTIONED THIS TO ME. THANKS AGAIN. CHRIS

Chris, It is better keep young birds on a Starter/Grow ration until the pullets start laying. My bantams won't eat pellets, but perhaps yours are smaller than I am able to obtain. I use "crumbles". Layer ration for young pullets is not recommended! All of the feed, such as starter, grow, and layer rations are considered "complete" feed, unless the label states otherwise. They love cracked corn, ( I use Scratch" feed, which contains a variety of cracked grains) but it isn't really nutritious--can add fat, not recommended. If you feed it, limit it to about a Tablespoonful for each bird per day. And when you feed grains, you must be sure you have grit, so it can be "processed" by the birds. When your little pullets begin to lay, add oyster shell, free choice. American Bantam Assn. has a really good small paperback book called: Bantams, Those Intriguing Miniatures by Skinner. I recommend it--has answers to most questions about raising poultry. (It does not list Dutch Bantams, as when it was written, they were scarce as hen's teeth!) CJR

CJR CAN IPUT JUST ONE NEST BOX IN WITH THE HENS WHAT SHOULD I LINE IT WITH HAY OR SAWDUST ? THANKS CHRIS

Chris, Yes, just one nest box is fine, because if you put in 2 boxes, the hens will both lay in the same one anyway. I like to line mine with fine barley straw and swirl it, pushing down with my hand, to make a rounded nesting. Some hens rearrange the straw, but I like to give them a nice start. I use small cardboard boxes, somtimes cutting a hole in the side or cutting a scoop on the side they enter, depending on what boxes you can get. Sometimes have to put a nail in the wall, so it isn't tipped over, but when they are soiled--or after hatching chicks, just burn it and get a new one. ps If one hen sets, then you must move her out, box and all, and provide another box for your other hen. CJR

i have a 7-8 week old chick that i'm not sure when to put with the rest of the flock taht is currently moulting and is about 15 months old

The flock may murder your chick--maybe it will be okay after about 5-6 months, or if it is a pullet, when it starts to lay. Adding any new birds to a flock can be almost impossible, but some birds will accept new ones and some people have little trouble. I would sure wait until it is larger! Good luck! CJR

I just got two 2-week-old White Crested Black Polish chicks. They're adorable and everything, but how do I pick them up the right way? I want to accustom them to being calm pets, but they seem sort of flighty. Can you please give me hints on caring for them, these are my first chickens ever.

marie, good luck on your chicks they are great birds there is really nothing to picking them up just gently cup your hand over there back and adding only alittle pressure gently left them up and let them stand in the other. and just a note of warring I've raised them for about 5 years and never had trouble with the pullets they always been very gental and make great pets ,but have found the roosters to be sort of head strong and some times they can be quite mean I've had very few roosters that I could use for breeding and not get attacked when I went in to the pen they seem like the total opposite of the hens. I hope I have helped.
leigh

I am new at this and I have a variety of young chicks 24 jumbo broilers, 24 long Island Reds and 24 Oriental blacks. along with a dozen White Pekins. I had intended to keep all of them together until I can take them off the heat. Is this a mistake and will it cause problems. Or is it OK to leave them together. Thanks... Esaelp

by the questions you ask you already know that it would be better to saperate them-i would strongly recommend saperating the ducks from the chickens as they have different nutritional needs and water requirements( and no self respecting chicken wants to drink after a duck)-if you leave all the chickens together be sure to feed the broiler ration it is a must for your broilers and it won't hurt your other chicks - make sure they have plenty of room- no drafts-clean dry litter- enough feeder a water space and that they can stay warm with out piling up-watch for problems and correct them immediately--most of all enjoy them----

We haven't gotten our birds yet but have a few questions regarding general raising and incubation. What should the outside temperature be before letting the chicks outside? What type of food and supplements are recommended? Do you leave a heat lamp on the chicks 24 hours a day, 7 days a week? What temperature should the incubator be at? How long should it take to hatch? Lastly, we are considering Rhode Island Reds. From what we've heard and read so far, that breed seems to be a good all around bird for eating and laying. Are we on track here? Any information would be greatly apprieciated. Thanks.

We are adopting 8 to 12 chicks from our daughters' kindergarten project. They are giving them to us shortly after they are hatched and observed for a few days. My grandfather raised all types of chickens for well over 50 years but he is 94 and can't recall the specifics. Of course he can tell great stories about them but gets forgetful or distracted when I ask the specifics. I can remember him hatching chicks in an incubator and keeping them in a box with a heat light but that's about it! I just thought the babies were cute and remembered gathering eggs from his largly populated coups. What kind of light/heat do we use and for how long? Is a cardboard box ok for their "home" until we put them outside, and when do we put them outside? What type of feed should we get and how long do they stay on that particular kind? And when should we expect them to begin laying eggs? Obviously I am brand new to raising chickens but have wanted to for a long time. We are starting our own little farm. I grew up with about every animal immaginable, but it was the "boys" job to take care of the outdoor jobs and the girls had indoor chores. I want my kids to experience the country life like I did. We are in the country on 10+ acres, and have a huge barn. We are building a coop and are very excited about our first farming animal... the chicks! We'll add on others as we learn more! Thanks for any info and your time!

hello to all, i'm just getting started with chicks. i'm expecting my first order on the 19th of april. my question- will a regular 100watt bulb with a tin reflector work for a heat lamp? will the light from it 24hrs a day cause harm to the chicks? any other advice will be greatly apreciated! thanks

Brooks, You do not say how many chicks you are getting. I hen-hatch, but take the babies in to raise. Because they are bantams and very small, I can put a hatch of 8-10 in a large shoe box for about 5 days, then a larger cardboard box. I have a gooseneck lamp that I bend over the box--100W frosted bulb, small hood on the lamp. I place a plastic bag that just fits the box, in the bottom and then place a good heavy textured white paper towelling, which I keep the babies on for 3-5 weeks. Before the chicks go in, I place a thermometer in the box and adjust the lamp so the box is 95f. Focus the lamp light on one end, so the water goes at the other end of the box. The water needs refill often, as it gets warm. Feed, (Starter crumbles), are just placed on the paper along one edge for the first week--then a small sardine can becomes a feeder. Lots of feed is wasted. I don't care, I layer clean towelling several times a day and just roll it up from time to time and start with clean towelling. You must just be sure the chicks are not too warm--if they are, you will have pasty bottoms. They will pile up in a corner if they are cold--and if they are hungry they will cheep. Quiet babies that eat, drink, and sleep for the first week are a blessing! In the larger box, higher sides and sometimes requiring a piece of hardware cloth over the top to keep chicks from jumping out, is the next step. By 3 weeks or a little more, they are in a big box from the grocery store, handles on the end and are moved to a table with a book shelf above. A regular clamp-on lamp with reflector is placed over the box--at this time they may be warm enough with a 75W lightglobe. Temperature always checked to keep it dropping each week--until they go in pens on pine shavings with regular chick waterers and feeders. By this time they are quite well feathered and get a little baby grit and birdseed (millet). Beautiful little miniature chickens and, while labor intensive, have a nice start on life and I've enjoyed it! I never use Heat Lamps--ever. And they may have lights on 24 hours a day for 6-8 weeks! Absolutely no harm. But they do cry the first night they sleep in the dark. People-children do this sometimes, too! CJR

thanks so much for the info CJR! i have read several of your advice postings since this and have learned alot from you. i'm getting 25 white leghorns. i'm hoping to produce some eggs for myself and friends. of course i'm mostly doing it for fun. i'm currently modifying some horse stalls into large coops for later. my biggest task in this is securing them from preditors but so far so good. any advice on this will be welcomed. thanks again!

How do I check the temp. for my chicks? I noticed you saying on another page that you "never" use a heat lamp, but that's all I have to keep my babies warm. Is it okay? Also, how do I go about getting a "rooster"? I'm assuming when someone sells you 'chicks' they mean chickens only. How do you tell the males from the females? I know I sound really stupid, but I bought these little guys on a spur of the moment, and didn't have a clue, not even a book or anything. Also, how big of a coop would I need for a dozen or so chicks? Right now I have them in a large wash tub in the shed. I have a feeder and a waterer, along with pine shavings in the bottom. Is this okay for now? I'm not sure how old they are, they can't be very old. But, they do have lots of feathers.
Thank you,
Deb

hello Deb, as you can tell from above i'm new at this also. from what i have learned so far it sounds like your on the right track. i bought a cheap outdoor thermometer to put in my chicks container. i would think its ok to use a heat lamp as long as you can raise it to drop the temp. 5degs every week. from what i have learned female chicks are called pullets and males are called cockerels. i'm sure CJR can add advice to this and correct any thing i may be wrong on. his postings throughout this site have taught me the most. good luck!

I am new to the chicken business. I have just bought 7 chicks (one for each family member at this time). They are white leghorns. Anyway, I would like to know if there is any good sites or plans to build a nice coop. I have about 5 more weeks before I would even think about putting them outside, so I have a little time before the coop needs to be built. I will be adding more chikens in the future but didn't want to go way overboard at first. My wife and I would eventually like to have about 20 chickens. Is there any good suggestions on what type of chickens do good together. I don't just want leghorns. I am new to this site as well so I am adding my email address just in case it isn't added. birds@humboldt1.com

hello, i have 25 white leghorn chicks that i think may be ill. please look under (SICK CHICKS) to see my story! any advice will be greatly apreciated! thanks!

Help! I've been a 4-H rabbit leader for about 2-1/2 yrs. and as of last Monday, am now the "Small Animal" leader and now have the poultry group as well as the rabbits. I know NOTHING about raising chickens or poultry and have a few questions:

1) What is a safe mix of birds? Can you mix chickens with turkeys? How about peacocks? Guinea Hens? Laying hens if so, what kind would be best? We live in central California. We have an enclosed area about 20 x 40 that is about 10 ft. high. We can sub-divide the enclosure if we have to, but would like a to raise a mix that could co-inhabinate. We are committed to raising some fryers and turkeys for our county fair and the chicks and poults will arrive the first week of June. Can they be kept together or should I divide the coop?

2) Our poultry unit is next to the sheep unit and they've been having problems with "club fungus?". Before we cleaned up the enclosure, they had some of the sheep in it, but it was before they had the fungus problem. Supposely the fungus lives in the dirt and can survive for 10 yrs. Is their any way to sterilize the ground before moving birds in? Do you think this may be something we have to worry about?

3) Where's the best place to buy show quality birds? I have about 10 kids in the poultry group and they all want something different, but I want to make sure everything is compatible, so they already know they'll have to compromise.

Any help would really be appreciated.
Kathy Watts
wiga@lightspeed.net

Kathy, California has a great 4H Poultry book. Your county extension agent should be able to get it for you. There are a number of Poultry Clubs in CA, and one club puts on several large Shows a year at Roseville. They have a big Junior Show and Showmanship Classes. Breeder/members of the club should have a good variety of fowl for youth. Some make them gifts, some will have birds at a reasonable price. Search for the American Poultry Association Webpage. I think there will be links to California Poultry Clubs--or why not try the COOP Links--just click on the White Rock (or Wyandotte) to the left of these messages--and go from there. There is lots of information available. CJR

Hi, this is Duckylucky here and I'm new to the coop. I live in Southern Ireland and I have two cockerels,eight hens, two dogs, two cats and two goats,two children and a husband, quite a family. I am just expecting my first batch of chicks and my hen has been sitting on her clutch for seven days now. I have given her and the eggs a cardboard box with wood shavings and she is happy. At night one of my huge Rhode Island Red hens gets into the box with her( she is a Maran) and seems to protect her and the eggs from the other curious hens by squawking and flapping and chasing them off. Is this normal? I think it's quite sweet but I'm worried she might attatch herself to the chicks when they hatch. If she does would there be problems in Paradise???!!! I would appreciate any thoughts, Duckylucky.

Nicky, It is not unusual, but is detrimental to the incubation of the eggs! Take her out and place her on the roost with your other birds, or better yet, move your setting hen and her box to a secluded place, with her food and water, where the rest of the flock cannot interfere with her setting or her rearing of the babies. If the large hen is thinking of setting, she needs eggs of her own and her own place to set. But she will want to be in a nest in the same place she is sharing nights with your little mother-to-be. Two hens on a nest may mean that eggs are stolen back and forth between them and may not be incubated evenly. Rarely will 2 motherhens share the chicks properly and in their efforts to control all the chicks, the chicks may suffer neglect, while the hens argue. Good luck with your family! CJR

I would like any info available on guinies(spelled wrong I'm sure) I have three now, one has a nest, but she now has about 25 eggs and is still not setting. I had decided to buy an incubator and then she started covering nest so I've held off, I would really like her to do it the old fashioned way if possible. How do I know if she will set, do guinies set like chickens? Should she be on nest most of the time? Should I give up & incubate? Thanks for any advice

I have 30 3 wk old rocks, they have been picking on themselves as of yesturday, they have a red lamp, good circulation, but they seem to be picking themselves apart. What should I do?

There are anti-pick solutions you can buy. You paint them on the chicks and they taste bad. Check your teperature. Too hot is as bad as too cold. 85 degrees duing their third week, down to 80 to start their 4th week. How much space do they have? They should have 1 square foot per bird or 30 square feet of pen space in your case, AS A MINIMUM, between now and 8 weeks of age. Good Luck.

My name is Matty I just gott 3 baby chicks As pets
from my dad , but I have no Idea how to rasie
them!!!!!!! Is there any way I can get them to not be
afraid of me? I kind of want them to be people
birds. I have 2 golden retreiver dogs and I was
wondering if the dogs would ever get used to the
chickens and not eat them. Thank you so much
~Matty

I'm a new starter with a flock of several breeds that range from 3 weeks to 6 weeks old. What I'm trying to find out is what the average laying age is. Any help or info would be appreciated. Thanks

I have unexpectedly been able to aquire 5 chicks from a class room experiment my 11 yr old was in. Since previouly I worked as a floor supervisor at a prominent breeder hatchery I was able to picke out some good ones. They are very healthy and seem to be thriving at 4 days. My problem is that although I know how to grade them and inoculate them and send them away to houses, I have no idea what to do now. I have them in a small clothes basket with some bread crumbs and water. I have no idea what to feed them. They are also under a lamp. What do I do with them at night? Leave them under the lamp? Cover them up? When are they ready to go outside and what sort of pen should I make for them? I am totally clueless. I have wanted to raise chickens but didn't expect it to happen so fast. I don't want to get anymore chicks until I learn what to do with the ones I've got.

Another question is, what breed should I be looking at if I want eggs, but also meat in the freezer?

Thank you so much.

Theresa, Your chicks are already on deprivation food, and chicks may "look healthy" until the day they start dying! Grated hardboiled eggs would give them a boost right now. Tomorrow, at your feed store, obtain some medicated Starter Crumbles for your chicks (some people don't use medicated--I DO.) You may find chick feeders and waterers there, also. But right now, find a cardboard box, deep enough that they won't jump out (and you may need to place a wire ( I use a flat dish drainer)over the top by next week. Line the box with with plastic, so it won't soak through, and place either halfpage newspapers or paper towels on the plastic as their bedding. As it becomes dirty, layer on clean paper--a number of x a day. In a few days, roll it all up and start with a new layering. I place their starter crumbles right in a corner on the floor of the box for a few days, then use sardine cans or tuna cans before I use small "hopper" plastic feeders that still give them room to move and sleep in a heap and far enough away from the water so it isn't scratched full of crumbles. My 60W or 75W light in a reflector hood (from the hardware store) is hung just high enough to register 95f in one spot in the box(not over the water) for the first week, they will sleep under it--you are about ready for 90f (drop temp about 5degrees a week-by raising the light-- until they are well feathered and temp is about 80 in the box--and 70-75 outside) Light is on over them 24 hours! By 8 weeks,they may be ready for short times outside, and will always need protection at nigh. Can't write the whole bit in a notelet, so during the next few weeks, look at pictures of pens or shelters to build, so you can keep them safe from predators (dogs may be the worst), rain and wind. Depends totally on where you live, how much protection from weather, etc. they will need. Good luck, start surfing the net,try http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/BRK.BabyChicks.html plus the library, feed stores may have a good book! If you go back to the COOP Links, you will find Hatchery and Poultry Supplies addresses and can get their catalogs--some are on line. CJR

Chicks start laying eggs at about 6months old Ray

Ray the chikens also need a box to lay eggs in
something like a cat carrier w/out the gate in front
and straw on the bottom would be good

Theresa
for my chickens coop I have a dog pen and inside
a dog house for them during the nightaround the
penI have bricks so animals can't dig under and
on top a sheet of curvy plastic so that rain and
birds don't get in and the chickens don't get out

Our broody Black Rock sat on 4 eggs in nest box. About 1 week later when we came to move her to new quarters found 12 eggs - obviously other hens laid whilst she was off nest. Now have one chick (3 days old) and 11 eggs of uncertain age. Worried that chick will suffer as broody still sitting - no idea whether chick is eating/drinking chick food left in ark. Will chick stay in nest under 'Mum' and become malnourished? Any advice appreciated here in deepest North Wales, UK.

would someone be kind enough to send me the info. on building a coop. i'm a beginner and i want to start with some banties.please let me know how many to start with,etc.thank ya much. jim

Dancinjimmy: One of the best sites to see pictures of housing for poultry is: http://www.poultryconnection.com/links/
You will have to hunt through the menu, for both Bantams and Housing for enough information to keep you looking for days! And some very good ideas for housing of all kinds. You see, where you live will determine the kind of coop you need. Here in NW Montana, we have to provide protection for -30F in winter and up to 100f comfort in summer--and protection against all manner of varmits from skunk, raccoon, hawks, weasels, bear, coyotes, foxes, ferral cats and roaming dogs! Much of the country does not require this much protection for their birds.

How many? That's up to you. But if you are just starting out, I would suggest only a pair or a trio (cock and 2 hens) until you get to know about them. And please don't get the birds first--get everything else ready before you choose your first birds. Send for some catalogs of Poultry Supplies and sources of bantams.(They're free and you can order them on line--go back to THE COOP,> click on the upper rh of this page). And also find you nearest feed store, so you will know where to get your best and proper feed for your birds. It is such a great project--can be lifelong enjoyment--so go for it! CJR

OK,I ordered my chicks,only lost four out of 38,and I'am ready to build my coop. the only question I have now is the flooring, what do I use. Do I put a floor in or keep it dirt. Concrete would be great except for the price.Any reply will be glady accepted.
Thank you.

A dirt floor with chickens is an invitation to rats. I like a concrete floor, but as CJR mentioned a couple of days ago elsewhere, a wood floor up off the ground works well if it is insulated properly for your climate. We are currently in a moveable building on treated skids, up off the ground on treated 2X6s, with a plywood floor. This works well, except that I wish I had the insulation sandwich floor she described. We deep bed and put straw bales around the outside of the building or pile up snow so the cold wind doesn't blow underneath during the coldest part of the winter.
I have had concrete floors in the past and like them very well.

If you want to give your plywood floor an extended life, you can utilize a boat building technique called fiberglass encapsulation. I did this for a few things in my coop including the floor and the nest box lids using fiberglass epoxy resin.

By covering the porus and crack-filled plywood surfaces with fiberglass epoxy resin I was able to create a kitchen counter-like smooth surface that makes cleanup easy and resists the amonia-based moisture in the droppings.

A few months ago I had a faulty automatic fount that flooded the coop floor. After shoveling out the litter and sweeping the floor clear of excess water, it only took about 15 minutes for the floor to completely dry.

Steve

My name is Tristan. I am 9 years old. I have 2 barred Plymouth Rock chicks. Is it ok to keep the light on all the time? How hot should it be? The lady at Mill & Feed said 98F, but then the books say to make it colder sometimes. I need some help please. Thanks

Tristan: Start your chicks at a steady 95 degrees at their floor level under your heat source. Make sure there are no drafts on the chicks, but allow them space to get away from the heat if they want to. It's okay to heep the light on all the time; in fact you must if it is your heat source. Keep the temperature at 95 for the first week, then reduce the temperature to 90 for the second week, then 85 for the third week and so on until you reach 70 degrees.
If you use a red flood bulb in your fixture or brooder shield, you can turn a white bulb on and off for light, or let natural light provide daylight for them. If you have a heating element in your brooder, then turn white lights on and off as needed, or use natural light. Good luck!

Hi Folks!
I'm new to this and have 2 sex links and 1 rhode island red chicks -- all about 10 days old. I'm feeding them chick feed (crumbles, I think. Are crumbles the size and texture of Grape Nuts cereal?) and I'm wondering if I can or should give them some exposure to natural sunshine so they will have adequate amounts of Vitamin D? It's sunny and 70 degrees where I am. If sunshine is a good idea, how do I go about doing this?

Also, I would like to know if I can supplement their feed with scraps at this young age -- I was thinking of giving them some greens. Also, does chick feed usually have grit in it? Or should I provide them with some sand?

The little chicks thank you for your advice!

Seattlechick, welcome to the wonderful world of raising chickens. There is a lot of good info on this discussion board about raising chicks and I'm sure all of your questions will be answered but I definitely recommend that you also get a book from you local feed store if you can. This will give you a handy reference and some good general advice about a variety of issues related to raising poultry. I recommend "Storey's Guide to Raising Chickens". The other cool thing about reading through the book is that it will answer some questions that you didn't even know you had.

In response to your questions:
Feed: make sure you are giving them chick starter (usually contains Amprolium to discourage intestinal problems) with approximately 20% protien. Commercial feed classified as "chick starter" or the like will have the correct balance of protien, fiber, some important vitamins, etc.

Sunshine/Vitamin D: If you are concerned about Vitamin D, many of us use a vitamin & electrolyte supplement that goes into the water. This is especially helpful for young chicks. Some feed stores carry this but you can also mail order from www.mcmurrayhatchery.com and others. If you put the brooder in a window (I assume you are using a brooder with a light bulb for heat) make sure it doesn't get too hot during the day and too cold at night. I try to raise the chicks in an area where the temperature remains as consistent as possible. In my opinion, the temperature would tend to fluctuate at a sunlit window making it difficult to control the temperature without a thermostat device. If you really want to do it, make sure you monitor the temperature carefully so it does not get too hot.

Scraps: At only 10 days old, I would be very hesitant to give them anything other than commercial feed. They only just got the hang of eating and drinking a few days ago. You will run the risk of them choking if they ingest something that they cannot break down. You DEFINITELY need to give them some grit if you give them greens or other scraps. Since they are so young, you should sprinkle it into the feed (just like salting food). Later, you can put some grit in a separate container for free choice consumption.

Good luck with raising the little ones and be sure to get yourself a book to use as a handy reference.

hi, i hope i can get my answer soon. I just got about ninety birds last week and i have a few questions. i have two week old chicks and ducks that we keep outside. they seem to be ok in the day and we shove them in their house at night. we have a heat lamp to heat them up but we still see them in a great big huddle. that really concerns me cause in the morning i see some dead chicks that have been trampled on... or some that are just dead of the cold. some who are on the verge of dying i put in the incubator with the eggs we are trying to hatch. i don't know how long they should be in there.
the ducks seem to be fine though.
i am also concerned about the chicks hiney. some have the hugest clumps of poop on them i'm afraid they can get sick or whatever. i try to wash it off but to no avail. i had forty chicks at the beginning and now about twenty they die so often i have no idea how. i know some is from the cold. i don't know if i should take them inside.

one solution i had was to put our six week old chicks in with them at night. this was also a failure. some six week old died too.

if i do take them inside, where and how should i make the shelter? i want them to have room to walk around.

i also have a question about the feed. i bought some food for them which said starter. i provide water too. i hope that was right. should i give them anything else?

ok, now about the hens, i have forteen hens and a rooster. i made nests for them to lay but instead they dig a whole in the ground and lay there. i don't know if that is right and if it isn't, how can i make them lay in the nest?

geez, i know some of these questions are somewhat dunb but i never taken care of animals. if they had a "how to raise chicks for dummies" book please someone tell me!

Well, I had the same exact questions when I first started raising chickens. You certainally aren't a dummy, just inexpirienced. Here are the answer to some or all of your questions:

1. You need to put another heatlamp in your brooder. The reason they are huddling together is because they are cold. I think the temperature should be about 100 degrees farenheit (correct me if I'm wrong) and be reduced each week by 10 degrees until it reaches 70 degrees, by then they should be nearly completely feathered.

2. Take the chicks out of the incubator. If it is styrofoam, they may peck it and it's not good for them or for the incubating eggs. They may also roll the eggs around, preventing you from having a good hatch. If they're sick you might want to bring them in the house and pamper them until they get back on their feet.

3.You should remove the poop from the chicks butts. This is normal and nearly all chicks expirience this. It is due to stress or something like that. This is a tedious, but necessary, job. It can be removed using a soft cloth with luke warm water. Gently pull it off. It may cause some pain, but it's better than not being able to poop, right?

4. I don't know anything about buildings or how to construct them. They should be draft-free and free from racoons, mink, dogs, or anything else that might want a light supper.

5. Your chicks should be fed chick starter. This can be purchased at the feed store or your local fleet farm. You may also want to consider getting some terrymiacin for the general health of your flock, but only give this to them for upto 2 weeks.

6. About your hens...... a nest box sounds appropriate. You can't force your chickens to lay where you want them. They can be trained, with time to lay in the nest box if nesting materials are provided (ie. straw). nest boxes can be purchased from murray mcmurray hatchery (or any other hatchery or store that sells chickens or supplies.) they can also be built.

Good luck with your chicks.

Notice: I'm not an expert so feel free to make comments or changes to any of the information printed above.

thanks oatman!

i instead of putting another heat lamp in,i put a heater in there. they seem ok, none died last night which is a first. i only have ten left.
i took the chicks out of the incubator. if i take them out of the incubator, should i just leave them under a heat lamp to help?
i really am hesitant to take off the poop off the chicks.. not only is it tedious, IT STINKS! warm water didn't really get it off. any other suggestions.
i am gettting my first batch of chicks in a week and i have a problem, i have eggs in the incubator with them that aren't suppose to hatch until few more days. i know i'm suppose to turn off my turner for the last three days for the first batch but what about the rest? will they be ok if i don't turn them or should i take the first batch out of the incubator? if i take them out, how can i make them warm enough to hatch and what about the moisture? when they do hatch, what am i suppose to feed them? starter?
well thanks oatman and i can get a response to this too!

KFChick, when you have two different batches of eggs in the incubator, there are a couple of things you can do regarding the turning of the later batch. You can remove the turner completely and just lay the eggs in the incubator, then turn the later batch by hand 3 times a day. Or you can remove some of the egg turning trays from the turner. Leave the later batch of eggs in the turner, then lay the first batch where you have removed the trays. I hope this helps!

thanks mark!

um i still have a problem with the moisture, the pamplet i got said that i have to double the amount of moisture for the ones that are about to hatch, if i do that, will that effect the later batch?

wow, i really like this whole page thing going on. i get my responses sooo fast!! thanks a bunch!

I've never had a problem with the humidity being higher for a few days. Humidity is something that can be adjusted a bit during incubation. Even if the humidity has been too high the first part of incubation, you can always "dry" the eggs a bit later in incubation, you just have to be careful. The ultimate goal is to have the air cell at the top of the egg the correct size. If it is too big, increase humidity; too small, decrease humidity. Good Luck!

About the pasted vents........

Sorry I'm taking so long. I had a concert until late last night and didn't have a chance to check the board.

If warm water doesn't help, consider cutting the poop and feathers around the vent off so they don't paste up again. But be sure to not cut the chicks. this procedure may take more than one person- but if the chicks cannot get rid of wastes-they will die in a matter of days. I've done this before- it was too painful to tear the poop off, so I cut it off- not at once, I took it in layers, using a soft cloth to remove any waste that been worked free. When I got the top off, the rest usually came fairly easy. The chicks will not like this and may gurr or peep really loudly, but remember, this is for their own good.

Oh, and about your other questions.........

I don't think it's necessary to stop turning them 3 days before total incubation time. I just hatched out my first batch a month ago today! Three hatched out (2 on the 9th of April and another a week later.) I set them at differant times......I'm still learning too. I turned them up until they hatched. I had another that piped and died in the shell--the cause- I didn't know when I set it and stopped turning it a week before it was actually due. It's better to turn them too much than not enough.

It is VERY important to keep your chicks inside the incubator until the hatch is complete. An alternative would be if you had a setting hen-to put them under her, but I'd only do it if it were an emergency.

When your chicks hatch, take them out of the incubator when they are dry and fluffy-I'd leave them in overnight if I were you and take them out in the morning. If the bottom of your incubator is wire mesh, lay some napkins or soft cloths down for your hatching eggs. One I just hatched out became paralyzed in one of his legs from drying in the wrong position on wire. He still hops around, but I can't find it in my heart to put him down--he's so cute!

When your eggs do hatch out and are dry and you have taken them out of the incubator and transfered them into the brooder (I put napkins down their first few weeks until they begin to scratch it up, then I transfer them onto newspaper if none seem to have leg problems) have the heat lamp or whatever on them so it's 100 degrees in the incubator. Temperature should be reduced by 5 degrees each week until the temperature reaches 70 degrees. Provide food (chick starter) and water immediately, but they may not eat since they can live off of the yolk absorbed previous to hatching for up to 48 hours. Chicks may need to be encouraged to eat and drink. this can be done by tapping the food dish and saying cluck cluck cluck. and if they don't drink, dip their beaks (but don't drown them) in water so they come up to swallow it.

Good luck with your chicks and eggs and please keep us informed about how your hatch goes and if you have any more questions, we'll be here to help!

Oatman

Thanks Mark and Oatie,
my first batch is going to hatch in five days, FIVE DAYS! i am very excited, i'm also trying to candle them but i can't see anything but speckles from the inside of the shell, is that good?
my little three weeks chicks are numbering only eight. I cut the feathers near the vent and it's ok. i should make them underwear to keep their tooshies warm, hahaha. (they are scared of me now because they know what i'll do to them.) in their coop, i use straw for flooring, i heard that sand or dirt is better? any truth in that?

when my chicks do hatch, should i mix the starter with some water so it is easier to digest?

i really, really thank you guys for helping, i am the only one in my town, (small town) that raises chickens. thanks again.

KFCchick, Not a good sign if you can see speckles THROUGH the egg shell, so I hope the eggs are growing okay. When your chicks hatch, they will be very tired from all the work of getting themselves out of the shell, so don't worry, if they are too tired to do much more than sleep a lot for a day or two, but DO NOT put water in their Chick Starter. They do not digest food like we do. For a few days, I just put a little pile of starter on the paper towels in their box. They will pick up the starter crumbs bit by bit, and after 3 or 4 days, will eat and sleep, eat and sleep! They love to scratch it almost from their first day! Show one chick where the water is, and they all learn from one another. (I never dip beaks, but sometimes put my own finger in the water and lift it up, like a hen showing how to do it.) Sometimes I put the drop of water left on my finger tip to touch a tiny beak, it slips on the chick's beak and it will swallow the drop--that's enough at a time! Can you get a thermometer to lay on the floor of the box you will put your chicks in, so it will be 95degrees when you put the chicks in. Too warm or too cold seems to contribute to pasty bottoms. Good luck with these wee things--they are precious! CJR

I also have chicks hatching in five days. I set 12 and so far 7 seem to be developing normally. I share your feeling of excitement too. I have never heard that it is wrong to mix chick starter with water..... I do it to the sick or unthrifty-looking ones their first couple of days, at least to start getting them eating. They all ate it and I haven't lost one yet. Could you please explain more?

KFC: I would never put my chicks on dirt or sand. I use napkins for about 3 weeks then they get transfered into a bigger box with newspapers and some sod (a chunk of our lawn--WITH OUT PESTICIDES) Then when the roosters start to crow, they get transfered out into the barn on shavings and are allowed to go outside if it's nice and sunny. And then when the hens start laying eggs, 21 days later the process repeats....

hi again,
well when i do candle the eggs, what am i suppose to see? i candled most of the eggs and i get the same results. how do i know they are developing normally?
when the eggs are starting to hatch, how much room should be made for them?
during the hatch, if one has a hard time getting out, should i give a hand?
after they hatch, should i give them food and water and make them eat immediately?
if one doesn't come out at all, what should i do?
is it okay if they come out a day early or late?
wow, i have a lot of questions and i hope i can get some answers.
the chicks i have are ok, they are feathering nicely and everything else is fine. thanks for helping!

I can tell you're a little nervous-and so am I!

1. Right now, when you candle the eggs, they should look all black inside- with a air cell at the large end. It's not as exciting as it was at day 7, but at least you know that the chick is developing properly.

2. When the eggs hatch, they don't need much room, just enough so when they've worked their way 3/4 around the shell, they can push themselves out. They may roll the surroundidng eggs around, but that's normal.

3. Let nature take care of your third question. If a chick doesn't hatch, that means it's probably weak, or has some defect that mother nature sorts out. It is possible to help them, but don't panic, hatching takes time. It can take all day or less than an hour. Make sure the incubator remains closed during hatching. When you stop turning them (on Sunday) all the rings should be completely filled with water or if you have a hygrometer, it should be 65%. Don't open the incubator unless you are removing chicks.

4. Yes, food and water should be provided when they are completely dry and fuzzy, but don't force them to eat it. They will most likely be tired out--hatching is hard work, so they may not eat for the first couple days, but when they start walking around. You should show them where it is.

5. If one doesn't come out, it's best to let mother nature run it's course. I've helped one hatch that was stuck from inside the shell, but it only lived for 5 days and was very week. These are usually chicks that are just generally poor and will just be in pain and not worth the hard work associated with them, but if you feel you must interfere, wait for about 36 hours before messing with it. It may hatch out on it's own and peeping can usually be heard a day before they actually hatch you may also see them wiggle. This is very exciting and they should hatch within 24 hours.

6. Yes, it's ok for one to hatch early or late. This would signify that the temperature is too high (hatch early) or too low (hatch late). If this happens, next time, reduce or increase the heat by a couple of degrees.

I have a couple of questions for you. Just out of curiosity, what kind(s) are these new chicks (in the incubator and the 3 week olds)? I am expecting 7 little fuzzy Barred Rock Bantams. And my hen is sitting on about 10 or so. I candled a couple, and you can see the "web" of healthy week old chicks!

oatman, i don't see any black or air space!!! this really worries me. does that mean my eggs aren't going to hatch? i took one of the eggs my hen just layed and i candled it, it was all clear, i think that's good. am i using a too dim light?
well all i have to do is wait, i don't think i have anymore questions other than that one. big day is tuesday!

KkFCchick, Do your eggs that are incubating look clear, just like the fresh-layed egg? If so, I am so sorry to say that it doesn't sound like they were fertile. As the eggs develop, the shadow inside, when you candle, gets larger and darker, until it is solid dark, and the light does not go through at all (except for the airspace at the wide end, which will be slanted and not usually straight across.) Sure hope they are okay, but don't be discouraged if it doesn't go well the first attempt! We all have suffered from disappointments in hatching! And we try again--so best of luck--maybe all is well, I hope so. CJR

The ones in the incubator should be all dark--except for the air cell. I take a regular flashlight and go into a dark room and tilt the egg at an angle. Some people build these candleing boxes, but it's not worth the trouble. If the eggs in the incubator are clear (the light passes through the egg) then the eggs aren't fertile. If you see a half shadow clinging to the side of the egg, that means the baby has died. Are the eggs dark shelled (brown)? It's not as easy to see through these and if they're brown, you may need a stronger light source. I Hope they're fertile and healthy, but if they're not, you can always try again. Keep us informed. Oatman

i checked them this morning. some of them can't be seen through at all and yes they are brown. Big day is tomorrow and i am stressed that they aren't going to hatch. none has died i think, but then again, i see little clear speckles in most eggs. what is wrong?
and oatman about the previous question, i don't know what kind of chicken they are. i know they aren't bantam though, sorry!
about candling, i use 100watt light bulb for my eggs, i'll try to find a stronger one and check later in the day.
again, i thank you guys for helping and keep fingers crossed!

KFCchick, Don't hold that l00W light bulb against the egg for more than an instant because of the heat! If you make a hole in a cardboard about the size of your eggs, it will sheild the light and so concentrate it on egg itself and you could see better. HOWEVER, as close to hatch time as it is, I think you may be better off to wait and not disturb the eggs any more. Best of luck--the suspense it so great, fingers crossed is okay, too!!!(I have eggs expected to hatch this week under 2 little hens). CJR

I don't know about the clear specks....It might be the inconsistant thickness on the shelling, I have the problem with that on my bantams, but the chick should be blocking the light's rays. You shouldn't candle your eggs anymore and leave the incubator shut. The chicks need time to get possitioned before they hatch. ANd if you keep bugging them, they won't have time to get situated and the result would be a poor hatch.

Wednesday mine are due and I'm excited! I'm beginning to look for movement--like they did before they hatched last month. I'm keeping my fingers crossed as well. I need a good rooster for the fair--last one's comb is coming in crooked, but hopefully it will straighten out.

Have you increased the humidity and lower the temperature? Your incubator should tell you what's right. I am using a Little Giant 9200 Still Air Incubator and it doesn't tell me to lower the temp. during hatch, but I've found that removing the front plug works best when they're starting to hatch--to provide more oxygen and lower the humidity a touch if the hygrometer reads 70%+ I wouldn't want to drown them.

Good Luck with your hatch and keep us informed about your hatch!

oh no! i am real scared now... my chicks won't hatch...
my incubator just told me to stop turning the eggs three days before the hatch and fill up all the parts of the incubator with water. where can i get a hygrometer? how do i increase the oxygen flow?
i don't know if i should lower the temperature. i have the eggs in with some other eggs which aren't going to hatch in a few more days.

well good luck to you oatman! i hope you hatch will be better than mine.

i have a new question about my six week chicks. today i found a cut on its side. the skin is hanging off and it doesn't look that great. how can i help? when i touched it, the chick didn't feel much pain.

well, that's about it, thanks!

and to cjeanr,
hi, thanks for helping! i hope you have the best of luck with your chicks.

It's a little too late for a hygrometer.... Just keep the incubator closed. I don't do anything about the oxygen flow, just take the front plug out when they start to hatch. Good Luck- today is the big day, right?

About the chick...... The best thing to do is to separate it so the other chicks don't peck it to death-Chickens are canabolous (sp?) animals. Put some non-toxic anti bacterial on it so it doesn't get an infection and flush the area with luke-warm water. Make sure it's warm (aprox. 70 degrees) and has easy access to fresh water and food. Is it bleeding? How deep is it? What condition is the chick in? (ie: is it standing, running around, or laying down and kind of droopy looking)You may want to consider taking it into the house and keep an eye on it. Keep it away from anything dirty or any loud noises that may put more stress on it.

Tomorrow is the big day........hopefully I'll wake up to peeping eggs with tiny holes in them! How did your hatch go? I hope you had luck, if not, there's always next time. Best of luck with your hurt chick.

Oatman

dear oatie,
my chicks haven't hatched yet, i have very little hope. that's ok, i'll try again.
my chick was bleeding the wound is black... is that bad? it has a good millimeter of skin hanging off of it. it looks fine though, it eats, cheeps and runs.
hope your hatch is great!
KFC

i took the chick and i put it with the younger chicks. i washed the wound, it wasn't scared of me which is wierd.
my eggs still haven't hatched, i think they aren't fertile.
big day is for you today! how was it?

There's still nothing, but they should hatch late tonight, I hope (the temp. in the house has been variating since it's spring < 30 degrees one day and 80 the next>). My hen is sitting on more that are due next friday, so either way, I'll probably end up with chicks. I'm sorry to hear your eggs didn't hatch, but at least you learned a lot, and I'm sure it was fun and exciting-- pity you don't have anything to show for your hard work, but that's the way it works.

Your chick sounds like he (or she) will make it. Is it a hen? If so, they may be starting to choose their pecking order. Or if it's a rooster, and their fighting, I would advise separating the hens-- they will only fight if they have something to fight over (ie: hens). Well, good luck with your chicks and eggs if you decide to set more. Keep us informed if anything hatches.

Oatman

dear oatman,
thanks for your help and concern, out of 42, i KNOW one will hatch. and that'll make all the work for it.
My chick is ok, it was just a chick, i think a hen might have hurt it.
good luck with your chicks, how were the ones that were due today?

i gave up on the eggs, i will start again. if you can, please send me pics of what a candled egg should look like.
i know it's weird but remember i'm still learning!!

KFCchick, There are several personal webpages that show pictures of developing eggs. One is of ducks eggs and they were really good. I will have to search to find it, however, and it may be a while. Ask again, if you don't get another answer right away, as I will lose your message. Really sorry for your disappointment, but it just isn't as easy to bring all those little chicks into the world as it may seem! And the next time should be better. .(I have 2 new babies, a 3rd pipping. Another bigger hatch tomorrow). CJR

Wow! great job cjeanr!
i'll look for candled eggs myself. thanks anyway!
My chick that was wounded is ok, the wound itself has turned almost black. i don't know if that's good but it's still living.
i have a question about my hens. they lay an egg and don't take care of them, why is that? i bet it would be better for the eggs to be with them than me.
wow, i don't have anymore questions for once.

KFC, The black on your wounded chick may just be dried blood, and it will protect the wound as it heals from underneath.

As for your hens....hens just lay their eggs and they are done with their work!! They do not take care of them at all until they "set", if they are a breed that will set and hatch eggs. Then, they will set on any eggs, ducks, pheasants, their own or other hen's--they don't have a clue about whose eggs they are. Or when Mother Nature tells them to set, they will stay on an empty nest! You may as well collect and eat the eggs while nice and fresh. But if you plan to hatch some, just save the nicest ones until y ou have enough to start your incubator. Then good luck!!! CJR

Here's a site I found that shows pictures of candling eggs. I know they're not chickens, but that's what they look like so you get the idea:

http://www.tcaviary.com/eggs.htm

I hope you find it interesting.......

Oh, the very last picture is what the eggs should look like when you stop turning them-- all black with the air cell at the top. The others are probably at 7 days, and the darker ones at 14 days, and so on.

Hurray!!!!! Last night at 10:00pm, a little chick hatched out! It's a boy?? (at least that's what I think) he doesn't have a name yet. He hatched upside down (on the bottom of the egg) and it only took 20 minutes. He's really healthy, except he's butt-heavy, and sits with his legs sticking straight out, but he wants to get up because he kicks his legs and flaps his wings. CJR: what can I do about this? Would codliver oil help? (don't know if you can give it to day old chicks) He loves to be picked up and cuddled (or seems to), but when I bend his legs under him, he gets real squirmy. There's another one that's peeping inside the egg so maybe he'll have a friend. He also has his umbilical cord that's not broken (along with a piece of the egg) Should I cut this or will it fall off on it's own. WOW! I can't believe how much our month old ones have grown--he's one third the size of them! I hope I get a response back soon because It pains me to see the poor thing struggle.

to mr. oatman
thanks for the link, the eggs that i saw looked nothing like the eggs i candled. the page said if i candle it incorrectly, i could kill it, how am i suppose to do it?
congrats on your hatch, i hope all of your chicks will grow to be the best of all.

Oatman, Gosh, it is exciting, but a worry, too. Let the umbilical cord dry and it will fall off. The bit of egg will, also. It usually sticks in the shell. But give the little thing a time to rest--it is HARD work to get out of that shell. Do not feed him or force water him at all for the next few hours. He has enough yolk inside to nurish him for a while. By tonight, you may wish to dip your finger in the water, where he can see you do it, and touch the end of his beak just with the drop that stays on your finger. Tomorrow will be time enough for food and water. As for Codliver oil, wait another day or two for that, too, as he may get his legs under him after he absorbs some more of the yolk already in his belly. Then, if he is not getting around, put a drop (just a drop) of Cod liver oil in a spoon and you can get him to swallow it by lightly opening his bill and let it run in. When you see him swallow, you will know he got his drop. Only one drop, once a day for 3 or 4 days at the most. Hopefully, you will not have to do more. There are several methods of helping legs come together--not always effective, but always worth a try! I sure wish y ou best of luck and hope the next one is "hunkydory"! I had 3 hatch yesterday, and 6 today--all seems just fine. They are in a shoebox and eating and drinking and sleeping--not a peep, so I know they are comfortable and happy. CJR

Thanks for the quick resposes. First of all, KFCchick: It's Miss Oatman (Yes, I'm a 14 year old girl). I don't really know the "correct" method of candling eggs since I only use a flashlight. Sorry I can't help more, but I'd just be doing more hurt than harm if I tell you what I think.

CJR: The little chick is now called Silver. He got his legs underneath him and is walking around some, but he doesn't put his whole weight on his right foot. He's really lonely so I put a stuffed animal by him, he seems to snuggle up to it and be more content. He found the water and is pecking at stuff. The chick in the egg still didn't hatch and isn't peeping anymore. It's also 3 days late. I have a question reguarding my month old chicks. Two of them have this bowing syndrome (they curl up in a ball and tuck their heads underneath themselves). It's usually not bad (it happens to all the hens every year when they're about 2 weeks old), but this time both the hen and the rooster have it and they just curl up in a ball and back into the corner and stay there. They always recover, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to prevent/cure this problem. I think it's hereditary and/or they're lacking in some nutrient, but whatever it is, any help would be gladly appriciated.

Miss Oatman, When I have just one chick, I clip a mirror (the kind that comes in purses, with no rim) in its shoebox, with a big paper clip. The chick will talk talk talk to its reflection, sleep in front of it, and I put a little fluffy Easter chick right there also, and the chick will snuggle up to it and stop crying. Food and water are right there, too. The lamp I put over the box is on all the time, and before I put the chick in, I have placed a thermometer right under the warmest part of the light and adjust the height of the lamp to register exactly 95f the first week. As long as the chick is just the right temperature, it never cries. I am always happy when several more chicks hatch and can join the single one. (There were 3 that hatched Thurs, then 6 more yesterday, so 9 little striped fluffies are in the box now!) I hope your Silver baby will thrive. I don't know why your little ones curl up?? But it may be a vitamin deficiency???With good Starter crumbles, perhaps they get over it. CJR

Thanks CJR: I am a little worried about Silver's right leg. He doesn't walk on it much and his toes aren't spread out. I checked all his joints in his leg and all seem to be in perfect working condition (none are paralized). He limps around and it doesn't hurt when he puts his weight on it. He's also pretty light and doesn't seem to know what to do about his chick starter. He pecks at it, but I've never seen him eat any. Is it too soon to begin giving him codliver oil? He's 3 days old. He should have some friends (half-brothers/sisters) hatching soon--on Friday by my hen Robbie. Hopefully they'll be healthier with a hen-hatch. But they'll also be inbred- Robbie is Randy (my rooster)'s sister. This will be her first brood and hopefully she won't get mad when I take them away from her. I'm so excited! The chicks have been moved outside into the barn and the fresh air seems to be helping their condition. I have been thinking about what causes them to be like that. We give them terrymiacin (we have problems with respertory diseases and lost 3 out of the 5 that hatched last year to MS) and it only says to give it to them for 14 consecutive days and they are almost 5 weeks old. My mom yells at me if I don't put it into their water because she thinks they'll die without it. Could the excess in terrymiacin contribute to this bowing syndrome? We have never lost a single chick due to this so it isn't life-threatning.

Yes, I would give the little one the drop of codliveroil, doesn't sound very good, however, so watch for him to begin to eat in earnest--that should be by tomorrow.

As for terrimycin--I never use antibiotics of any kind unless I know what illness a bird has. And it is so rare for me to have a sick bird. It will not prevent any illness and may reduce natural immunity by killing off the "good" bacteria in their systems, especially while they are so young and just getting their systems working well. Electrolytes have minerals and vitamins, which would be much better to give chicks a start, if you feel it is necessary to add "something" to their water??????

Don't worry about inbreeding, I do it all the time, brother/sisters back to sire or dam or grandsire or granddam. I have never had any weaknesses show up, in fact the birds are much more predictable in all the good things I am looking for! Good luck to you and those babies! CJR

Silver is now beginning to peck at everything: his food, water, stuffed cat, my fingernails, his toes, and even the mirror I gave him. He's getting very vain with his mirror--examines himself and then tries to preen his little fluffy "feathers". He now sits in his food dish and pecks his food and peeps happily to himself. I'm not worried about him not eating, just his foot, but he seems to be using it more frequently.

Good news Oatman, Aren't they funny trying to get under, or beside, or just touch the chick in the mirror!!That reflection becomes important company for Silver. Glad he's eating now, and if he moves about more, maybe the foot will improve>> CJR

dear oatman,
so sorry that i called you mr. it's the man in oatman that threw me off.
anyway.. i started to incubate some new eggs.now that i know sooo much more about incubating, i am searching for a hyrometer, and i made a much better candler. i think i'll have some new chicks in a couple of weeks. the old eggs in the incubator i wasn't so happy about until my mom used them to make a cake. meh, it's a "try again" cake.
now i have a chick that i think has something lodged in their throat. i saw it eat some of it's food then all of a sudden, it just extends it necks ever so long and gives a loud scream. it did that every few minutes as it was gasping for breath. it didn't chirp until i gave it some water though a syringe and it started to chirp very quietly. i put in the coop with the smaller chicks. i checked it last night and i was just panting, not screaming...
how can i help? what's wrong with it?

KFC: the "man" in Oatman is after my bunny. His name is Oatmeal and he's the only man in my life-- ha ha ha!(kind like batman). Any way, about your chick- It's probably choking. (if it had a respertory disease, it would be showing other symptoms and is usually hard to detect ie: sneezing, paralysis, etc.) Do not force water down its throat. Gently, but firmly massage its throat with your finger from where the wattles are all the way down to the crop. Then dip the very tip of his beak into water, but don't drown him. If he drinks, the object probably is dislodged and he is fine, if not, repeat the process. Keep an eye on him, though to make sure he doesn't have any complications or persistant choking. It was probably hot or tired from gasping for air when it was panting.

I'm glad you are not giving up on incubating eggs. I wish you luck with this next batch. I don't think I'll do another batch this year. I have all the chickens I need for my 4-H project and then some. I also want to improve the nutrition of my birds and get them out of their breeding "mode" and start to condition them for show.

I don't know if it's such a good idea to be making a cake out of eggs that were heated up to nearly 100 degrees for 3 weeks-- weren't they rotten? I wouldn't eat it, at least that doesn't scream "EAT ME!"

To CJR: Silver's condition has greatly improved. He's now eating dilegintly and somewhat walking on his "bad" foot. He's a little pest. if you put your hand in his box, he'll gladly jump on your hand and fall asleep after he is finished pecking at all your freckles and decides they aren't part of his diet. If you remove your hand (and silver from it), He'll scream and scream and scream until you take him out and cuddle him. Then he'll make little pleasant peeps and fall asleep again. It's a never ending cycle. I'll be glad when Robbie's eggs hatch on Friday (just 4 more days)!

hahaha... i like the name oatman!
well my chick hasn't gotten any better. even worse i think... it still chokes or screams, which ever one. it has pooped out only white liquidy poop which i know it isn't healthy. it stay in the coop all day. my grampa shoved some chopped up onion down its throat this morning... it don't know what that is suppose to do but he said that is what people do "back in the day" it is very limpy, it hasn't eaten all day so i have made it eat a bit..
i haven't checked up on it for about two hours... i'll check it up soon.
soothing its throat helps.. it doesn't do that scary scream that much when i do it. it sleeps a lot and it droops its head to the ground. i feel real bad about it..
the eggs i used for the cake weren't rotten, i know of it... i had a special way of knowing which is too hard to explain.
i found excellent, EXCELLENT pictures of candled eggs, it shows each day of development so i have a failsafe way of hatching chicks.
sorry to hear about Silver... sounds like its getting around though. hope he'll or she'll be ok.

Finally found the Website I wanted to tell you about that has really neat pictures of Bantam and large Ducks eggs at all stages of development. Lots of good information. You might like to see it as well as the page you have already found. You might like to give us the address of that page.

The QuackersHome page is: http://members.tripod.com/~QuackersHomePage/links.html

Has candling stuff, hygrometer, all kinds of interesting information with music and pictures! CJR

KFC:

I did some research about your chick and I found some fungal (reperatory) disease that's symptoms where like that you described. (Gasping for air, droopy apperance, decreased appetite <I think the liquidy white poop may be caused by dehydration due to decreased appetite>) Aspergillosis (A.K.A.: brooder pnemonia). Mortility is high, and it is not contagous. It is caused by moldy feed, bedding, etc... it is quite common, though I've only heard of it second hand. There is no cure or treatment, only prevention by providing fresh food and clean bedding materials. I'm not 100% sure this is what's bothering your chick, it's just my opinion. CJR might have more expirence with this and you can do more research on it because you know the symptoms and can easily identify it. I'm really sorry to say this, but there is little you can do to save this chick-- only make it comfortable. The next couple days will decide its fate. I'd suggest you change the bedding and check the feed for mold or spores. There is a possibility that your other chicks may come down with the same symptoms. Keep us posted with any changes or improvements in your chick's condition. And CJR: your input will be gladly appriciated.

guys, thanks for the help
thanks for telling me what it is. more symptoms are: it has a "bubble" on its chest. it looked at my other chicks and i don't know if the bubble is suppose to be there. its poop is getting yellow. i think its good. it has gotten more droopier and won't take any water what so ever. i used a syringe and put a couple of drops in. it won't eat so i'm thinking feeding it hard boiled egg to help... i read that on the msg board.. should i do it?
if i take it to a vet, would they be able to help?
i really don't want it to die so i'll do my best.
please, please answer asap

it has started to vomit it's water out its mouth and nose... it scrunches up its feet and won't open its eyes. you sure there isn't any cure?
i bought wood chips and put them in the coop.
hope this won't happen agian

KFCchick. Forced feeding or watering will kill birds faster than letting them starve. They will eat if they can, and if you force food and water, it just stays in the crop, and can spoil. If a bird will not eat, the digestive system just isn't working, and forcing food and water will not cause it to work. Since a bird cannot vomit, the crop is full and the liquid is just running back out. A veterinary would not have a clue what to do for a sick chick, in fact there probably is nothing anyone could do. It is sad, but Mother Nature is not always kind. So best to keep it comfortable, quiet, and let it expire on its own, it will just slowly stop living. I am so sorry. It is hard to experience, but it will happen again, during the years you keep chickens and raise chicks. They just do not all hatch strong and robust, and are so fragile for a while. We must accept it. CJR

CJR my chick died this morning, i didn't know the digestive system wasn't working i thought since it was pooping it was ok. digestive wise.
its ok, i have eggs hatching very soon so it'll compensate.
when i was looking for candled eggs myself, i also found how to injected die into the chicken egg to make it different colours. haha, it'll be cool to have a blue or purple chick.
i'm still gonna check out the site you gave me. thanks

I'm sorry to hear about your chick. I was busy at school and stuff so I couldn't answer your postings. Injecting dye into eggs? I've never heard of that, and I don't think it sounds good to the incubating chick to have a hole in its shell and dye in its food. Wouldn't this change the way things work for a developing chick? (ie: eyes, digestive system, breatheing) I would never do that to any of my chicks. Just 2 days until the big day! I'm so excited. When are yours due? Good luck with your eggs and rest of your chicks and keep an eye open on them in case of an outbreak.

the website i found the coloring of eggs is:
http://chickscope.beckman.uiuc.edu/resources/egg_to_chick/coloring.html the website talks all about it and it doesn't affect anything whatsoever.
it seems safe and i'll try after i actually hatch eggs.
the eggs that were due yesterday and today just hasn't hatched yet. what's wrong!!!!
ok, i have yet another question, the temperature today went over 90 degrees farenheit. my chickens and chicks had the hardest time.. they'd stay in their house and open their mouths to breath. i gave them plenty of water but i really want to cool them off before they get sick or something. any help?
my chickens have layed very obsure eggs. they are usually brown but i am getting white ones now.... i also found a super small one the size of a quail egg. it this regular to have funni eggs?

I have had my chickens for a week and now I do not know any information on chickens. PLEASE HELP ME!!!
THANX ALOT,
~KELLY~

Kelly. Go to: http://www.feathersite.com/Poultry/BRK.BabyChicks.html

There is so much you need to know, and this site will help. There are many LINKS on this site with great information Then get back with specific questions, if others on this board can help you. Good luck, CJR

KFC:

Once in a while you get a very small egg that contains nothing but the white (no yolk). i occasionally find these during the "molting season" with our americanas.

My barred rock bantams are "supposed" to lay brown eggs, but they are always white or slightly tinted. Not all eggs are "perfect" and you occasionally get wierd ones when they have added stress (ie: extremely hot or cold weather).

About your chickens exposed to 90+ degree weather. I once heard that when the temperature approaches 100 degress, chickens and other birds have a hard time breathing. I don't know if it's entirely true, but I always put a fan in the chicken or bunny room if there's hot weather and a heat lamp on if it gets around zero. Also chickens can't sweat like humans and horses so they can only pant (like dogs). Sometimes, if in direct sunlight on a very hot day, your chickens may lay on their sides in the sunlight and pant. If you find chickens like this, move them into a cool shady area and provide plenty of fresh cool water (not ice cold) because there is a risk of sunburn and too much sunlight can cause problems. Where do you live? I'm from Wisconsin so I don't have problems with hot weather often.

About your eggs, are they fertile? was the temperature too cool and the humidity too low during the incubation period? I can't really say what might be causing the hatch problem without more information. Good Luck though, and I hope they hatch. Robbie's eggs are due tomorrow-ish and the temperature here is in the fifty's and rainy. (I swear they know when it's going to be when they start setting). Here's an Idea-- I'll trade you some of your hot for some of my cold (how does 75 sound?)-- I wish!

Good Luck again and keep us posted on how those eggs turn out.

to oatman,
it is soo true about wierd eggs, because of the hhot weather, we got cylindrical eggs. will they actually hatch?
if i put a fan in the coop, i heard that it can pick up dust and can cause respiratory problems.
i live in calgary alberta. it is suppose to be only around 70 but it jumped to ninety so fast.
my eggs! i candled one and i see the chick on the pointy side, that was the only one i know is actually developing.

i really would wish i could trade weather, it'll be nice for some rain.

Our coop is on a packed mud surface so we don't have problems with dust-- if you have other materials that are loose, a fan in the window might get air circulating and make it easier for them to breathe, this is not good for little chicks, because they can get sick very easily if exposed to drafts.

I choose not to use long cylender shaped eggs because it is harder for the chick to move around and the result is a poor hatch. Most of my bantams lay almost round eggs, and I've found that those aren't good either and you get chicks with leg problems (like silver)

Speaking of which, silver is absolutely perfect. He's now walking on his leg and a pig! He still pecks at everything, and talks constantly. He is growing up so fast! He's getting his little striped wing feathers and is very itchy. He's doubled his size in a week. Today Robbie's eggs are due to hatch, and I'm going into the barn after I finish this to see if she has little fluffy babies!

I wish you the best with your eggs.

hi agian,
well the weather sure cooled off, it started to rain to its ok.
i'm not putting anymore eggs in the incubator until the ones in there hatch. i candled some eggs and i sometimes still see speckelness but i also see eggs that are developing.
seems like silver is taking life to the fullest. how was the other hatch?

i just finished surfing on the net about incubating.
In my incubator turner, which end of the egg is suppose to be up? the flat side or the pointy? i always have pointy side up but i have my doubts.

Oh.Oh, the pointy end goes down. The wide end is where the air cell usually is, and where the chick has room to breath and turn. Gently reverse them, if you have some in the incubator now! Good luck, CJR

None hatched, yet. I don't know the exact date she started setting. I just threw out the old eggs from silver's hatchmates and discovered 2 pips upside down! CJR: is there something that caused the chicks to pip on the down side? Silver did too. I read that occasionally you get one like that, but what if they all do? I think they drowned because some leftover whites ran out of the hole, but silver absorbed all of his or he would probably have drowned too. My little sister was devistated because i gave her a fertile egg when I candled them at 7 days--#9. (I assign them all numbers so I know which one is which and if it's fertile or not and if it hatched or not < silver was #8>) #10 was the other chick with the little beak sticking out.

I don't have automatic turners ( just the hens--lol!) So I put them- pointy side slightly down in these holders I made out of egg cartons. They are repositioned daily because in a sillair incubator you have hot spots and cold spots. THat way, you get a medium temp.

Oatman, The eggs that hatch from the pointy end are "breach babies", the same as kittens or puppies that are not born headfirst. They may start to breath before the head is out, and either have no air or inhale "water". So it is important to "birth" them as quickly as possible. It is a difficult hatch for breach chicks, as the air space is small, and they haven't room to turn easily within the egg. Some hatch okay, some will with help, if in time, and some just can't hatch successfully. Not all eggs are "too" pointy and have wide enough ends to avoid breach problems hatching. You can see the air cell by candling, and can mark any that have the aircell at the pointy end--and maybe help those chicks, but they really must make the first pip-hole on their own, or you cannot tell if the chick is ready to hatch, and can bleed to death--lots of things to experience! Fortunately most chicks are oriented just right! Only by doing it can you learn, so best of luck! CJR

i'll change the position of the egg immediately,so pointy end down and air space up, what would doing the opposite do to the eggs? would they be ok? and how many times do i get to candle?
i didn't know about chickens being breach babies. i was one too!
the hatch might be a little late but that's ok. good luck!

I just changed the position of the eggs. i candled some before i turned them over and the dark part (embryo) was on the pointy side, when did i turn them over, to the pointy side down the embryo was on the air space side. it seems to be liquidy, is that suppose to be like that? hope they are ok

CJR:

Sorry about the late reply. (Memorial Day Weekend if you catch my drift) By upside-down, i mean on the bottom when they're laying on their sides so they're face down when they start piping. Silver hatched from the rounded side where the air cell is.

KFC:

If you keep the pointy side up during the hatch, any fluids that may be unabsorbed could come down (gravity) and when the chick takes it's first breath of air, it instead inhales fluid drowning the poor thing. Developmental-wise, I would think that there would be a greater chance of becoming crippled, and so on.....

About Robbie's Hatch:

Nothing hatched and she's been taken off her nest and turned out in the grass with the rest of the flock.

Good Luck with your eggs and chicks. Oh, and how is that chick doing with the cut on its back?

i don't get it, air space side up when its developing but for during hatch (last three days?), pointy side up? also, how many times should i candle, and also, my eggs' embroys are still liquidy, is that bad?

KFCchick, I only candle my eggs 3 or 4 times during incubation. First time, 4-5 days to remove any not fertile. Second time, to see if they are advancing in development, and again once during the last week to be sure they are finishing. If you have to hand turn, it isn't as important to be regular or a certain number of times a day, as just to gently rotate them. The embryo is still small enough during the first 2 weeks, so that you see it as "floating". After that it is large enough that the egg appears mostly dark and you can see the edges pulsing with the heartbeat. But the less handling your egg received, other than turning, the better, as the attachments could be loostened and the chick might have some abnormal development if disarranged within the egg. If the egg is not candled all dark, the last few days, no need to wait for it--it will not finish. It is so interesting to see, but better look at the pictures of the development than to invade its privacy too often! Good luck, CJR

No, KFC: you DO NOT want the pointy side up at all. Three days before total hatching time (at 18 days), remove the eggs from the egg turners and place eggs, pointy end slightly down on their sides on the wire floor. DO NOT open incubator or turn the eggs at all during this three day period (day 18-21).

You should candle eggs at 7 days, 14 days, and day 18 before you move them out of the auto-turners. Unnecessary candling can do more bad than good, as CJR says. It is better to see them when they come out all healthy than them not to come out at all. Be patient. Chickens have been developing and hatching since the beginning of time--they have this part down!

it's almost time for my next eggs to hatch, wish me luck!!

Good Luck!!!!

Help!! I have 4 nine week old chicks, the feed store where we got them couldnt really tell us much about them, how do you figure out what breeds they are? They were supposed to be all girls, How do you know for sure? wait till you here cock a doodle doo? they all get along great, my daughter wanted yellow fuzzy chicks so we went to another feed store wanting better information, not much better luck there! now we have 2 that are just starting to get feathers on their wings on top of their backs, they do look like two different breeds but are supposed to be the same. How do I introduce the "new" chicks to the old? I know there is supposed to be some pecking order going on but , for how long? the feed store said the pecking order is normal just dont let them bloody them up! (lovely) any information on any one of these questions would really help alot. Any way we love our chickens and they seem to like us too, I have a 2 1/2 year old that they let pick them up and carry them around, and "Amy"(barred plymouth rock?) will ride in his wagon!

Jennifer-

Your chicks are probably sex-link chicks. (Chickens that have been bred so the roosters look different from the hens to get the maximum meat from the roosters and maximum eggs from the hens) What color are the chicks? What color are the new feathers? How about the comb (single, rose, pea?)? I really can't tell you what breed(s) without more information. The yellow fuzzy ones will be all white, but there are a number of breeds that fit that discription (White Plymouth Rock, White (or Pearl) Leghorn, etc.) You have to wait until they grow up to be sure.

Introducing new chicks to old is a difficult task but it can be done. Make sure you have a big brooder because crowded conditions causes pecking. You can start by puting the older with the new. Keep an eye on them and if they start picking on each other, remove the older chicks. Another method I use when I'm adding my fair chickens back to the rest of the flock is by putting the chicks in one box together then adding them to a totally different brooder that is very spacious. Add the chicks one by one into their new "house". They'll probably be more interested about this new territory that they don't notice the newcomers.

Chickens shouldn't peck continuously at each other. Once the pecking order is established, the lesser ones will be very careful to avoid the ones on "top".

Good luck with your chicks.

Oatman

in need of serious help,
last night a coyote got in the coop. no idea how, the gate was closed and we have barb and chicken wire surrounding the whole coop. anyway, it really scared the chickens and my ducks, some of the chickens were bitten and i need some help to aid them. they still walk and eat but aren't in the happiest of days.
also, my chicks that are numbering to nine won't eat their feed. they refuse to eat it and instead eat the hens feed, they are too young, i think, to eat it and i'm afraid they might get sick. but a chicken knows better than me right?
about my eggs, i always thought you'd have the pointy side up when incubating it, it showed that in my instruction manuel, stupid manuel. well now i know and i'll candle them tonite.
and now about my ducks, haha... they oldest ones are trying to fly and run about flapping their wings but to no avail. wuld it be ok if they try to fly and actually do? also, my younger ones are having a hard time walking, they are very unstable and i thik it is because they do nothing but sit around all day, maybe because they are too fat too. they seem rather chubby comparing to the ducks i see. any response to that??
well thanks for the help and good luck to you guys and your chickens! ^_^

KFC:

Sorry for the late reply, again. This time I have no excuses. Your chickens who were attacked by the coyote can be treated like you did for the chick with the cut on the back. Make sure you throughly wash and disinfect the wound with warm water. You are dealing with wild animals who might carry diseases. Separate them from the rest of the flock and make them comfortable (away from loud noises and coldness). Unneccessary stress isn't good for animals recovering from a midnight scare and puncture wounds. Make sure they aren't canabolized because chickens LOVE the taste of blood and will literately eat each other.

How old are your picky chicks? If the hens have begun to lay, you can let them eat it. If not, I don't see how extra protien can hurt-- Maybe you could put vitemins and electrolites in the water to substitute for the missing medication. I'm not sure how to handle fussy chicks (mine are pigs) so you'd better let CJR handle this one.

Your ducks on the otherhand I've had some expirience with.... Yes, ducks will fly. What breed are they? I had some mallards last year. Paid $3.00 a piece for week old babies (2) for my fair project. 2 days before the fair, they flew away. They were good looking and there was no competion that year, (an undersized pekin, a couple of tough-looking mallards, and a pair of "call ducks" which had enormous bills, wrong coloring, and in the middle of a moult). Anyway, it would be best if you put some netting over their out door pen before they get any ideas. It's better to be safe than sorry.

Your fat ducks seem to be very spoiled. Lay off the corn (if you feed them this) and give them food with vitemins in it. They need less fat and more muscle. do you have a swimming pool for them? This would give them more exercise and strength.

Good luck with your hurt chickens, flying ducks, and fat ducks. Boy, you have a real zoo on your hands!

hi again, my picky chickens are about one and a half months old, i hate them, so fussy!! they never eat from their trough thingy and always eat from the other chicks trough.
my hurt chickens seem to be ok, they already healed and off to the coop they go.
on the other issue, my flying ducks are like the ones off of the show "friends" i don't know what they are called. they still can't fly and are still funny to watch.
my fat ducks don't eat any corn, all they do is sit on the grass, eat some of that and we give them some duck food we got from the store, we have to pools for them to swim in but they refuse to swim, who heard of a duck not liking to swim?

Wow! You sure have wierd animals! I've never seen "friends" so I still don't know the breed. Your fat ducks need A LOT of exercise! I would put them on a tredmill like the pekin duck on that one comercial, but they'd probably lay right down and fall off the end! I guess you have to deal with fat ducks. I've never heard of a duck liking to swim-- but I have a rabbit that dispises carrots, you can't please them all!

hi, it was down time for me and yet i have another question.
it has been raining for the past few days and the temperature has fallen to under 65 degrees. my ducks don't like to stay in their coop/house thing so they had stayed outside 24/7. last night, i found a runt standing by itself shivering like heck. i took it inside and i showered it, awwww... it still was cold but it was pooping all over the place so i took it outside... any response? it's still alive.
my other chickens are soaked to the bone too but when i place them in the house, they run outside! i have o idea why, their food is inside!

Ducks can get cold and wet, too. They need a place where they can get warm enough to suit them and dry off. If they don't choose a place on their own, you may have to confine them where they can warm up.

Hi. we bought a hen and rooster last fall at the fair, Norfolk Gray's. She is sitting on her first batch which are about 18 days. We candled one and it was dark except for a little bit on the big end. So here's hoping the others are good too. We didnt candle any more than that as it seemed to upset the hen when we came close. Anyway, can we leave the chicks in the coop (it is outside in NC) with the hen and rooster or are they in danger? Also, how do you tell the boys from the girls? I will get some starter feed tomorrow to be ready. Anything else? My grandfather used to raise chickens and he would separate the chicks so I just wanted to be sure. Any help is appreciated.
hillice

Andrea-

(Hey, that's my name too but you can call me Oatman!) When the chicks hatch, you can leave them to be reared by their mommy, but put the rooster in a different pen. I always take my chicks away so they get tamer and my chickens always sit during the coldest months. They should be fine in North Carolina where it's warm, but make sure they have some shelter from the wind and rain. Little chicks can get chilled very easily. What breed are your chickens? Some breeds you can tell by the color of the chicks (these are called sex-links). Others, such as barred rocks, you can tell by the spot on the head. Some roosters of some breeds can be identified by their significantly larger feet. Once your chicks hatch, make sure they have plenty of fresh food and water. Mother nature will do the rest. Good luck and have fun with your chicks.

Oatman

I need some help! two questions
1.I have a hen that has been setting for two months the other chickens keep laying eggs in her nest then leaving so she builds up quite a pile I have removed bad eggs a couple of times but no chick yet, one of my other chickens has hatched a chick but not this one. Should I take the eggs away from her or give her more time to try? a third hen has a egg ready to hatch (can hear it peeping). Had a fight the other day with one of the hens trying to take away the chick.
2. I have 6 geese about 4 months old then I got a late shipment of buff geese they are only 4 weeks old how do I get the old geese to accept them? when I let them be around each other the older geese have pinched thier butts and bullyied them is this normal? and do geese get jealous they only seem to go around them when I go out to check on them.